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Results 1 - 10
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2,897
Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf
, 1977
"... Kinematics of breaking waves in the surf zone: emphasizing analysis of identified and classified breakers. ..."
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Kinematics of breaking waves in the surf zone: emphasizing analysis of identified and classified breakers.
Animation and Control of Breaking Waves
"... Controlling fluids is still an open and challenging problem in fluid animation. In this paper we develop a novel fluid animation control approach and we present its application to controlling breaking waves. In our Slice Method framework an animator defines the shape of a breaking wave at a desired ..."
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Controlling fluids is still an open and challenging problem in fluid animation. In this paper we develop a novel fluid animation control approach and we present its application to controlling breaking waves. In our Slice Method framework an animator defines the shape of a breaking wave at a desired
Breaking waves Tank experiment
, 2004
"... This paper deals with some aspects of the wave-breaking phenomenon. The objectives were to study wave-breaking criteria, and the probability of whitecap coverage under fully controlled wave conditions. An additional task was to in-vestigate the characteristic spectral features of the noise produced ..."
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This paper deals with some aspects of the wave-breaking phenomenon. The objectives were to study wave-breaking criteria, and the probability of whitecap coverage under fully controlled wave conditions. An additional task was to in-vestigate the characteristic spectral features of the noise produced
FORECASTING BREAKING WAVES DURING STORMS
"... The occurrence and consequences of large breaking waves has been a persistent concern for centuries of seafarers and coastal dwellers. These waves are responsible for the greatest dynamic ..."
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The occurrence and consequences of large breaking waves has been a persistent concern for centuries of seafarers and coastal dwellers. These waves are responsible for the greatest dynamic
CHAPTER 26 KINEMATICS OF BREAKING WAVES
"... Measurement of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made of spilling, plunging and surging breakers at sandy beaches in the vicinity of Monterey, California. The measured breaking waves, derived characteristically from swell-type waves, can be described as highly nonline ..."
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Measurement of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made of spilling, plunging and surging breakers at sandy beaches in the vicinity of Monterey, California. The measured breaking waves, derived characteristically from swell-type waves, can be described as highly
A numerical study of breaking waves
"... The focus of the present work is on the numerical simulation of steady flows with spilling breaking waves. In particular, the breaker is modeled through a hydrostatic pressure and a shear stress exerted on the free–surface. Many elements of the exposed model are derived by Cointe and Tulin’s theory ..."
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The focus of the present work is on the numerical simulation of steady flows with spilling breaking waves. In particular, the breaker is modeled through a hydrostatic pressure and a shear stress exerted on the free–surface. Many elements of the exposed model are derived by Cointe and Tulin’s theory
Three-Dimensional Simulations of Deep-Water Breaking Waves
"... The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlin-ear progressive waves are generated by applying a nor-mal stress to the free surf ..."
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Cited by 1 (1 self)
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The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlin-ear progressive waves are generated by applying a nor-mal stress to the free
CATALYZING CRAIK-LEIBOVICH INSTABILITIES BY BREAKING WAVES
"... Abstract. Gravity waves on the sea surface reflect coupling between the atmo-sphere and ocean. They play important dynamical roles in the transfer of momen-tum, heat, and scalars, but how they interact with background oceanic (and atmo-spheric) turbulence is still not well understood. This is especi ..."
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. This is especially true under high winds where waves foster Langmuir circulations but also break intermittently. Results from high-resolution large eddy simulations (LESs) that include stochas-tic breaking waves and the Craik-Leibovich “vortex force ” are analyzed. Under certain sea states turbulence (anisotropic
Dynamics of a collapsing breaking wave
, 2005
"... This is a combined experimental and computational study of solitary waves that break on-shore. Velocities and accelerations are measured by a two-camera PIV technique and compared to theoretical values from a Navier-Stokes model with a VOF method for the free surface. In particular, the dynamics of ..."
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This is a combined experimental and computational study of solitary waves that break on-shore. Velocities and accelerations are measured by a two-camera PIV technique and compared to theoretical values from a Navier-Stokes model with a VOF method for the free surface. In particular, the dynamics
Measurements of air/water interfaces in plunging breaking waves
"... Of the energy dissipation that takes place in violent breaking waves, some is accounted for by work done against the buoyancy of bubbles, and some by work done in generating splashes that may rise to elevations far above the crest. In deep water the probability of encountering air in such conditions ..."
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Of the energy dissipation that takes place in violent breaking waves, some is accounted for by work done against the buoyancy of bubbles, and some by work done in generating splashes that may rise to elevations far above the crest. In deep water the probability of encountering air
Results 1 - 10
of
2,897
